Puppy and Dog Obedience Training with John Wade  »  Contact Ask the Dog Guy

Contact Ask the Dog Guy

Phone: 519-457-9559

Email:john@askthedogguy.com

Mailing Address:
467 Berkshire Drive
London, ON Canada
N6J 3S3

Contact

{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

Karla May 21, 2012 at 2:39 pm

Dear John,
Our 3.5 yr old lab female is a great house pet. We don’t want a hunter or an athlete, so her calm and cuddly nature is perfect for us. We watch her weight, and almost all of the time she is a happy well adjusted dog who doesn’t have fears of noises or new things. There is one thing we wish for her for fun, and one we wish for all of us: She is afraid to swim (a lab!) and afraid of stairs. She worries every time she has to come up the five steps into the house; it’s worst if we watch. We read that a long run on a leash and a dash upstairs will cure her as she will be in ‘run’ mode and not have time to switch to ‘worry’. However, we both have arthritis, and a run is out of the question. Is this something a trainer can help with away from our home where the problem is?

John Wade - Ask the Dog Guy May 22, 2012 at 9:48 am

Hi Karla,

Is there any chance she has spine or knee problems that might make negotiating the stairs painful? If not, the run and don’t worry approach might work. I’d try enticement via dinner, toys, treats etc. but I expect you’ve tried all that. I’d have someone have a look at her though to get a sense of how much is fear and how much now might be drama that develops when a fear is allowed to linger in our lives. I also like to work with the dog in other ways for a few days that get the dog more focused on me. I build some trust in the relationship and there’s often less for the dog to worry about.

If you have arthritis it is likely best to let someone else do the stair running anyway as you don’t want to tumble on the stairs or ending up reinforcing the fear is she slams the breaks on. I’ll tell you that when she makes it up, you should head right back down and repeat no less and no more than 3 up and downs. Let her recharge her batteries and process the experience and an hour or two later do it again. Keep it up for a few days. You may have to take her to different stairs to make sure the problem is truly resolved.

As to the water, I’ve trained reluctant dogs to swim but I had to use a long lead and get out there in the water treading water. You have to be very careful though you don’t want a dog trying to climb on your head. As above, you need 3 successes in a row and then a big break.

If you are headed out in a boat and she’s agitated because of the conflict between being nervous of the water and being separated from you, a gentle hand over hand with the long line to reel her in and heaved into the boat for some cuddles and treats a few times might help as well. That would giver her an upside better then any treat. If she refuses the treats she may find it too stressful to make it worthwhile. Why do you want her to swim?

Karla May 22, 2012 at 11:27 am

I’m laughing as I read the last line, John – I suppose I want her to ‘be able’ to swim and enjoy it; I don’t need her to swim for any other reason.
As I read your reply, I think I will work on some more leash work first – where we live we don’t need it much, and I think that should be absolutely stable or I may create an additional issue. While doing that I will involve my young neighbour and see if she will ‘do the run’ up the stairs for us – Am I right in thinking this should take place over a few weeks, or should I expect that this, like learning a new routine will happen in a few days of repetition?

I look forward to the newsletter.
Karla

John "Ask the Dog Guy" Wade January 1, 2012 at 3:06 pm

Hi Lisa,

It’s sort of an avalanching behaviour. Once they get on a roll it’s hard to stop. With kids, it’s that moment that we say, “Hey! Everybody just settle down or someone’s going to get hurt.” They’re just playing but the escalation is going to get the better of them. Most dog training is way too contextual and dogs don’t respond the same in alternate environments. If you want her to still enjoy this social time with the other dogs (and they with her) you’re going to to have to up the ante in your training investment and get her to respond to you whether she’s running hot or cold. Think of well trained police dogs. Lots of drive but when they are called off they’re not being asked, they’re being told. That takes a good training foundation and then purposeful and incremental exposure to the sort of distractions that a real world scenario might throw at the dog and handler. It’s doable and fun but the relationship investment of the handler into their dog becomes more of a hobby rather requiring more work than a lot of dog owners have time for. Find a balanced trainer in your area, outline the problem and see if they have a dog you can practice with their guidance your dog’s obedience around.

The muzzle isn’t a bad idea but I’m not sure what you mean by a soft muzzle. If you mean the type that is made of cloth and keeps the dog’s jaws firmly shut, that’s not a good choice. The only way a dog can cool its body is through panting so when their jaws are kept shut like that they can over heat and do themselves harm. You’re better off with the basket type. I’ve seen those made of a softer plastic so that might be what you meant.

John