What to Use and Surprisingly What To Avoid
Kong On A Rope
The reason I use a Kong on a rope is I find that many dogs get a kick out of the irregular bounce. Perhaps, it’s a little more like running down actual prey?
The rope part is in part so it eventually can be thrown further. However, the larger reason is so that when the puppy or dog completes the retrieve you can make the pleasure for them even greater by playing a little tug-of-war. Perhaps they think we’re helping them kill the rabbit?
The Kong in the image above is a floating Kong which can be great down the road if you have access to a body of water. You can make your own by threading a rope through, adding a washer then a knot.
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Chuckit
Like the Kong on a rope, The Chuckit also allows distance retrieves, which you’ll want to avoid if you’re working with a puppy. Also, if you lose the ball instead of replacing it with an authentic Chuckit ball, try a much less expensive orange-type hockey ball.
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Avoid playing fetch with sticks
I have seen too many dogs, the ones that live to fetch, eventually grab a stick by the end instead of the middle, come charging back at full speed, and at some point drop their head just enough to drive the other end of the stick into the ground. You can imagine the outcome.
If your dog is already hooked on sticks, you may be able to transition him or her to something safer by using a flexible stick instead like the one in the image. It’s called the Kong Safestix.
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Avoid playing with fetch frisbees
As cool as those YouTube videos of dogs launching into the air to catch a Frisbee may look, that sort of activity is not good for a dog’s joints over time. There is nothing wrong with vigorous exercise that combines cardiovascular work and agility, but ask any retired NBA player how their knees are, and stick with the above recommendations which encourage more natural locomotion.
Recreational fetch essentials for puppies
Even with a retrieving, or high prey-drive breed, genetically inclined to chase, and, or, fetch dog, the slow is fast approach is best.
There are variations as to how strong the drive is. Some dogs you can do no wrong, the fetch-drive is so high. Others, you can accidentally discourage that drive, and lose one of the most easy-to-apply, beneficial cardiovascular experiences.
Here are my recommendations:
- Stick with one retrieve toy. See my recommendations on this page.
- Whichever you pick start with a size that your puppy can easily pick up.
- Never leave it out, and always make a big deal out of going to the closet when it’s time to play fetch.
- If your puppy is already used to dragging a leash around, keep a long leash on while playing fetch.
- Important: If your puppy’s interest wanes after 5 chasing after the retrieve item, only throw 3 times the next time. Leave your puppy wanting more. When their interest/endurance grows, increase the number of retrieves, but always leave them wanting more.
- Start indoors where your puppy is going to be less distracted.
- Start with very short retrieves.
- When necessary, use the leash to gently guide your puppy back to you, using plenty of enthusiastic tone and body language. If the puppy drops the item, don’t throw so far for a while.
- If you’re using the Kong on a rope (recommended) play a little tug-of-war with your puppy to increase their pleasure and desire to bring the retrieve item back to you.
- Initially, never play fetch with your puppy around another dog that will compete for the retrieve and discourage your puppy.
- Avoid playing fetch on concrete or asphalt. It will quickly scrape off foot pads.
Ask The Dog Guy Pro Tip: Incorporating “Stay” and “Come”
once the fetch/retrieve drive is rock-solid you can start introducing a “Stay”, and later a “Come”, here and there while playing fetch. It’s worthwhile. You’ll thank me when your dog decides to run down and fetch a skunk. → Here’s a Great Homemade De-Skunking Solution
Ask The Dog Guy Pro Tip: “Drop It”
Encourage release by combining a word like “Drop” with a little steady upward pressure on the leash (which you do not stop until the item is released). Just enough pressure to keep any more tug-of-war from continuing. It might take a few seconds, but you’ll see that your puppy drops the retrieve item.
Done correctly, the release happens not because the dog can’t breathe, but because light pressure at the bottom of the throat increases salivation and disrupts the coordination needed to hold and swallow at the same time, thereby encouraging release. Immediately reward the “Drop” with another toss.
‼️Note: The puppy’s collar should not be a choke-type collar. A martingale collar would be best, or a well-fitting buckle (not snap-together) collar.
